Yukon blog
Yukon 2019 Spring Rebate
Spring into Summer 2019 Yukon Rebate Program Scroll down to see HOT deals and watch unboxing videos. Yukon Spin Free Kits - $150 Rebate Yukon’s top of the line Hub conversion kit uncouples your wheels from the front axle, letting it operate more efficiently, reducing drag for a smoother ride and boosting fuel economy Replace your inaccessible, worn and vulnerable factory unit bearings with our complete Yukon Spin Free kit that comes with our toughest outer axles forged from 4340 Chromoly Steel, and forged hubs on most applications. Clean and sleek, this kit includes Yukon Hardcore Locking Hubs that let you engage into 4WD to play hard and easily disengage for the road back home. More Info Find Spin Free Kits Now Yukon Grizzly Locker - Save $55 Tear it up with our Grizzly Locker’s heat treated 8620 & 9310 Steel internals designed to dominate extreme torque and shock load Large inner-clutch teeth are stronger than back-cut designs by 350%, allowing great resistance to shock load or broken axle failures Premium alloy steel and nodular iron cases are designed for performance quality strength with minimal deflection More Info Find Grizzly Lockers Now Yukon Front Axle Kits - $50 Rebate Next-level strength and toughness from 100% 4340 Steel that undergoes Yukon’s stringent proprietary heat treatment process and in-house torque testing Tight tolerance yoke-end is the trick to a properly fitted u-joint that won’t vibrate or loosen Smooth and precise bearing journals are the secret to maximizing bearing and seal life, thanks to Yukon’s unique surface finishing treatment More Info Find Front Axle Kits Yukon Dura Grip - $40 Rebate Versatile performance allows quick reaction to all traction situations Ready to handle high torque and shock loads with the use of 4320 Steel Bevel Gears, which are up to 50% stronger than OE materials The heavy springs used in the Dura Grip provide ideal traction under light load, while the precision bevel gears further compress the composite clutch packs under heavy loads for best lock up Exceptionally heavy-duty nodular iron case will outperform OE iron cases by 20-30% More Info Find Your Dura Grip Now
How It Works: Dropout vs. Carrier-Type Differentials
While every differential housing performs the same basic job—holding the gears that turn engine power into forward motion—there are two key designs you’ll find out there: dropout differentials and carrier differentials. Dropout Differentials Dropout differentials—also called third members—can be identified by their removable front center section. The ring-and-pinion gear set lives inside a carrier assembly that can be easily removed or “dropped out” for service or gear swaps. The legendary Ford 9-inch is the most famous example of a dropout differential, but GM, Toyota, Chrysler, and others have used them as well. The ribbed housing is a quick giveaway that this is a Ford 9-inch. Common Dropout Designs The Ford 9-inch has countless aftermarket configurations, but it’s not alone. Toyota’s lineup includes the 7.5”, 8”, 8” high-pinion, 8” clamshell, 8.5”, T100 IFS, and several 9”, 9.5”, and 10” variations. Mopar fans know dropout-style diffs as banjo-style differentials, with the Chrysler 8.75” being the standout example. Dana has also built many dropout-style units that show up across different makes and models. Fun fact: in some circles, a front-loading dropout differential is called a pig-style diff, and across the pond, the ring gear is known as a crown wheel. No matter what you call it, they all get the job done. Why Choose a Dropout Differential? The main advantage of a dropout differential is ease of gear swaps. Because the entire gear case can be unbolted and removed, all the setup work—ring and pinion installation, backlash adjustment, and pattern checking—can be done comfortably on a workbench instead of under the vehicle. That means faster swaps, easier adjustments, and a cleaner install overall. Carrier Differentials Carrier differentials, on the other hand, are identified by their rear cover. To access the ring and pinion gears or other internals, you remove the cover on the back of the housing. GM’s well-known 10-bolt and 12-bolt designs fall into this category. In British terminology, these are called Salisbury differentials. If you can see the gears from the back, you’re looking at a carrier-style differential. Strengths of Carrier Differentials Carrier-style diffs are extremely common and have a few key strengths. Inspection and troubleshooting are easier—just pop the rear cover and you can see inside. No need to remove the entire center section to diagnose a problem. (Some aftermarket dropout diffs now include rear inspection covers to address this advantage.) One drawback for off-roaders, however, is the exposed diff cover. On rocky trails, a stock stamped-steel cover can get peeled back or punctured by a rock or tree stump—leaving your gears vulnerable. Protect Your Investment with Yukon Hardcore Diff Covers That’s where Yukon Hardcore Performance Diff Covers come in. Built from thick-walled nodular iron, these covers protect lockers, gears, and axles from impacts and housing flex. Each Yukon Hardcore cover features a durable powder coat finish, a magnetic drain plug, a premium gasket, and high-strength fasteners for a clean, reliable install that’s ready for anything the trail can throw at you. Shop Yukon Diff Covers Know Your Setup Understanding the difference between dropout and carrier differentials will help you make smarter choices when upgrading or servicing your drivetrain. Whether you’re re-gearing, installing a locker, or just protecting your investment, knowing how your diff works—and what upgrades it deserves—makes all the difference. Shop Yukon Re-Gear Kits
Understanding Differential Noise: Part 1
Many things can go wrong inside a differential. Although the hints are often subtle, most impending failures give fair warning in the form of noise. Recognizing Gear Noise Several situations can create ring-and-pinion noise. If the gears have been quiet and begin to howl, they’re likely worn or wearing. If the gears howl during deceleration only, the pinion-bearing preload may have loosened. Howling under acceleration at all speeds indicates that something inside the differential—gears, pinion, or carrier bearings—has worn or no longer keeps proper gear alignment. If the gears howl only while accelerating through a certain speed range, it’s often a sign of wear caused by lubrication failure or overloading. When a newly installed gear set howls, suspect an issue with the gear design or setup. Identifying Bearing Noise A common problem is worn carrier bearings, usually indicated by a low-pitch rumble above 20 mph. On vehicles with C-clip axles, the noise may change while cornering. Worn pinion bearings can cause whirring noises at all speeds, under both deceleration and acceleration. Because the pinion rotates faster than the carrier, pinion-bearing issues tend to produce a whir rather than a rumble. Severely worn bearings can also cause a howl if they fail to support the gears correctly. Wheel Bearing Troubles Worn wheel bearings can be tricky to diagnose. A completely failed bearing will announce itself loudly, but one that’s only starting to fail can be deceptive. Turning sharply from side to side can help isolate the problem, but don’t be fooled—a bad right-front bearing can sometimes make noise while turning right, even though the load is shifting differently than expected. When the Gears Go Silent (But the Vehicle Doesn’t Move) Sometimes a failure won’t make much noise—until it’s too late. If the pinion spins but the tires don’t rotate, you could be dealing with broken spider gears. This type of failure often ends with a loud crunch as the gears give way. A broken ring gear can allow the vehicle to move a few feet before grinding or banging as the damaged teeth meet the pinion. Depending on the ratio, a broken pinion tooth will clunk roughly every two or three feet of travel. Broken Axles and Gear Imperfections A broken axle is easy to spot. On a C-clip-style axle, the shaft can slide out of the housing—or even fall out—without unbolting anything. On bolt-in-style axles, you’ll usually notice the wheel cambering inward as the shaft fails. A high spot on a gear tooth can sound similar to a broken gear but only makes noise while accelerating or decelerating. A high spot on the ring gear produces a heavy click about every eight feet, while a high spot on the pinion is much more frequent and noticeable due to its faster rotation. Listen and Inspect Early Whether it’s a howl, whir, rumble, or clunk, differential noise is a warning. Listen closely—catching a small problem early can save your gears, bearings, and wallet from major damage. When in doubt, remove the cover or third member for inspection. Spotting a failing part before it destroys others is always worth the effort. Popular Resources: New Gear Break-In Properly Setting Preload with Side Adjusters Size Matters
Gear Oil & Friction Modifiers: What They Do and Why They Matter
Gear oil keeps key drivetrain components—like the ring and pinion gear set, spider and side gears, limited slip differentials, axles, and bearings—lubricated and running smoothly. Friction modifiers are additives that enhance the performance and efficiency of clutch-style limited slip differentials. Understanding how these vital fluids and additives work is essential for maintaining your driveline’s performance, longevity, and reliability under the harshest conditions. Read this article in Español Differential Oil by the Numbers Yukon recommends non-synthetic 80W-90 GL-5 gear oil in all differentials. Oil is rated by its viscosity value, which represents how thick or thin the fluid is at certain temperatures. Take a multi-grade oil like 80W-90: 80W – the viscosity at 0°F (the “W” stands for winter). An 80W oil is thicker than a 60W oil at that low temperature. 90 – the viscosity at 212°F, the oil’s behavior at operating temperature. A higher number means a thicker oil under heat. Multi-grade oils are blended with polymers that reduce the rate of thinning as temperatures rise and slow thickening as temperatures drop. The result is a product that performs well across a wide temperature range. Generally, a thinner oil circulates faster through the differential during cold starts, while a thicker oil offers better protection when gears generate higher temperatures under heavy load. Understanding the GL-5 Rating The GL-5 designation identifies how much sulfur-based friction modifier is present in the oil. This chemical additive helps the oil maintain film strength and protection under extreme pressure—perfect for hypoid gears in differentials and limited slips. Important note: Because GL-5 oils contain high sulfur levels, they are not suitable for manual transmissions. The sulfur can corrode soft metal parts like brass synchros. For transmissions, a milder GL-4 formulation is required. Yukon offers a full range of gear oils in various viscosities and both synthetic and non-synthetic blends to meet every performance and climate need. Stand-Alone Friction Modifiers Yukon Friction Modifier Additives are used when additional clamping force is needed in clutch-style limited slip differentials, such as the Yukon Dura Grip. These additives are not intended for gear-driven LSDs like the Spartan Helical LSD. Friction modifiers help eliminate annoying clutch chatter by ensuring smooth engagement and disengagement of the clutch packs. Yukon’s proprietary formula is designed specifically for the composite clutch discs used in Yukon LSDs. It delivers the optimal friction characteristics for consistent performance and longevity. Our friction modifier can also help compensate for slightly worn clutches or fine-tune the behavior of a differential for specialized uses—like road racing or vehicles that see frequent track days. Note: Avoid using parts-store-grade modifiers in your Dura Grip. Those products are formulated for OEM paper-style clutches and lack the proper abrasiveness for Yukon’s composite design. They perform more like diluted versions of our advanced formula. Maintenance Matters Both gear oil and friction modifiers play a critical role in differential health. Knowing how these products are rated and how they perform helps you make informed maintenance decisions that keep your Yukon-equipped driveline performing its best for years to come. Shop Oil & Additives Watch: Understanding Gear Oil and Friction Modifiers
How to Use an RPM Calculator to Find the Right Gear Ratio
An RPM Calculator is an essential tool for anyone considering upgrading to larger tires, changing their ring and pinion gears, or simply curious about their vehicle’s current performance setup. The calculator determines your engine RPM at a specific vehicle speed, helping you understand how gearing and tire size affect performance. What You Need to Know The RPM Calculator requires two key pieces of information: your vehicle’s gear ratio and tire height. Your stock gear ratio can often be found in your vehicle’s owner’s manual, researched online, or identified on a tag affixed to your differential cover. If you have your ring and pinion gears on hand, you can count the teeth on each and use the Yukon Gear Ratio Calculator to determine your ratio. Tire height can be found using our Tire Size Calculator, which uses tire width, aspect ratio, and wheel diameter to calculate true tire height in inches. Keep in mind that tire sizes are classifications, not precise measurements. For example, a 35x12.50-17 Mickey Thompson Baja Boss M/T measures 34.6 inches in circumference on a 9.5-inch-wide rim and 34.8 inches on a 10-inch rim. Some tires vary by nearly half an inch, so it’s smart to check the manufacturer’s specifications for the most accurate data. Feeding the Numbers Once you have your gear ratio and tire height, it’s time to plug them into the calculator. Select the vehicle speed you want to evaluate and hit Solve. The calculator will display the resulting engine RPM for that speed in four boxes below the calculator interface. Each box represents a different transmission type and factors in how internal gear reduction affects engine speed. The categories are labeled Auto, AOD, Manual, and 5-Speed. Simply refer to the one that matches your transmission for accurate results. Using the Calculator for Big-Tire Upgrades Before jumping to bigger tires, start by entering your stock setup as a baseline. Then, test various speeds—especially freeway speeds—to see how RPM changes with tire size. Decide your goal: Do you want to replicate stock performance, improve low-speed torque for off-roading, or optimize for towing and highway cruising? Have the tire heights for all your potential upgrades on hand. Enter each tire size into the calculator and adjust the gear ratio field until you find the setup that best meets your performance expectations. Make note of that ratio—this is your ideal target when shopping for ring and pinion gear sets. Yukon Re-Gear Kits Upgrading to big tires isn’t as simple as bolting them on and hitting the trail. Larger tires affect acceleration, towing capacity, fuel economy, and even drivetrain stress. Yukon Re-Gear Kits let you restore or enhance performance, ensuring your rig runs efficiently and confidently—whether it’s a daily driver, weekend crawler, or overland build. Shop Yukon Re-Gear Kits